·An adult female rat should weigh between 200 - 500g, while an adult male can weigh anything between 400 - 700g. However, this may differ depending on your rats size.
·Their average lifespan is 2 years, although they have been known to live above 3 and a half!
·Below is the average rat years compared to human years:
Rat Age
Human Age
6 weeks
10 years
6 months
16 years
1 year
30 years
1.5 years
38 years
2 years
45 years
3 years
60 years
4 years
75 years
·They are not fully nocturnal, so you will probably see them wandering around their cage both day and night.
·Rats have been domesticated as far back as the 17th century
·Dumbo Rats have bad sight, so use their excellent sense of smell and hearing to make up for it
·Rats can’t sweat, so use their tails to release heat and cool themselves down
How many should I have?
·Rats are very sociable animals and should never be kept alone. A lonely rat is an unhappy rat, so you should really buy two or more of the same sex so they can keep each other company while you are out. It is better to get a pair of rats that have been together since birth, but if you want to buy a new rat there is usually no trouble with putting them together, only maybe the occasional dominance fight. Very soon after introduction they should become firm friends.
Where to keep them?
·You should try and buy the biggest cage you can afford for your rats as they love to climb, jump and run around. Ideally, it should be a multi level cage, so they have separate areas for feeding, sleeping and exercise. It should also have a solid floor, as they have very sensitive feet that wire mesh floors can damage.
·The cage should be protected from direct sunlight or excess heat or coldness. It should be clean and dry at all times. There should be no need for heating, as long as there is enough bedding in the cage.
·Floor covering should be either hardwood shavings, paper based litter or ecopetbed, as sawdust can irritate rats eyes and noses. Provide a nest box for your rats to sleep in as well, and fill this with soft shredded paper, soft hay or cloth to make them comfy. Don't use straw as it is too sharp and can damage their mouth and eyes.
Toys and furniture
·Ropes, hammocks, tubes, wheels and balls should be provided in your rat’s cage to keep them entertained, and these should be moved around or swapped over every week to keep your rat amused. Most ferret and parrot toys tend to be safe for rats, and you can even make your own from old clothes, cardboard boxes, drainpipes and large glass jars.
Cleaning
·Food bowls and water bottles should be cleaned and changed daily, along with any soiled bedding.
·The entire cage, toys and equipment should be thoroughly cleaned using pet safe disinfectant at least once a week. If your rat tends to use just one part of their cage as a toilet, a litter tray could make cage cleaning easier.
Grooming
·Rats are very clean animals, and are constantly grooming themselves throughout their waking hours. However, if you do wish to bathe them, use lukewarm water with a specially formulated small animal shampoo, as anything else can cause skin irritation.
·You can also use a soft toothbrush to clean awkward parts such as the tail, but ensure you do it gently as you may remove the skin if you are too rough.
·Their claws may need to be trimmed every so often and it is advisable to get a vet to do this as there are tiny veins running through them which could cause serious blood loss and a lot of pain if cut. Putting a rough stone or brick in their cage may help to prevent their nails from becoming too long. However if you do decide to cut your rats nails by yourself though, always do it in the daylight where you can see the veins, and only cut the see-through tips of the nail with specially designed small animal nail scissors.Have something like Stytic powder on hand in case of any accidental nicks.
Food and water
Rats are omnivores and will eat a wide variety of food. Their main diet should be a specially designed food such as rat nuggets, rat muesli or any other pet shop bought rat food. The Shunamite diet is another form of mixed dry foods also widely recommended by many rat owners. You should then supplement their food with small pieces of fruit or vegetables to make a better balanced diet (see diet sheet below). All food should be in a heavy earthenware bowl to prevent it being knocked over.
Water should be available at all times in a bottle attached to the outside of their cage to prevent chewing, and food should be provided once a day, preferably at night time when they are most active.
Diet Guide (Note: all safe foods should be given in moderation)
Safe foods
Apples (no pips)Pasta (cooked)
Apricots (no pips)Peach (no stone)
BananasPeas (cooked)
Bean sproutsPears
BlackberriesPineapple
BroccoliPlums (no stone)
CarrotsPomegranate (no skin)
Cauliflower (cooked)Potato (cooked)
Cherries (without stone)Pumpkin (cooked)
Chicken (cooked)Radish
CoconutRaisins
CranberriesRaspberries
CressRice (cooked)
CucumberRocket salad
Dandelion leavesSharon Fruit
DatesStrawberries
Eggs (cooked)Swede (cooked)
FigsSugar Snap Peas
Fish (cooked, no bones)Tomato
GrapesTurkey (cooked)
Green Beans (cooked)Wholemeal Bread
Insects (mealworms, waxworms)Rat nuggets/Rat muesli/Pet shop rat food
KaleDog/cat biscuits
Kiwi (no skin)Cooked Liver
Lettuce
Mango (girls only)
Melon (no skin, no pips)
Mushrooms (cooked)
Nectarines (girls only)
Olives (no pip)
Papaya
Unsafe foods
Spicy foodOnions
Salty foodsBlue Cheese
Sweet, sugary treatsOrange juice
What we would call “junk “food, e.g. crispsGreen potato skin
Citrus FruitsCaffeine drinks
Dairy FoodsFried foods
CeleryChillies
Carbonated drinks (rats can’t burp!)Blue cheese
Chocolate
Avocado skin, pit, rind (the fruit itself is fine, but only is small amounts)
Brussel Sprouts
Cabbage
Liquorice
Wood that isn’t from a fruit tree, especially pine and cedar wood
Rhubarb
Pork
Rats teeth
Like most rodents, rat's teeth constantly grow, so something needs to be provided for them to enable them to wear them down, otherwise you will end up needing to see a vet to have them trimmed. Wooden toys, fruit tree/Java branches, natural bones and mineral stones are all an excellent way to do this.
Handling
·When you get your new rat home, place it in its cage with some food and water, and leave it alone for a few hours. This will give it time to get used to its new surroundings without being disturbed.
·After it has had time alone, start introducing yourself to your new pet by placing your hands in their cage and letting your rat sniff you.Take care not to make any sudden movements as this may frighten your rat.Try to slowly stroke it and maybe offer it some treats.If it is really afraid and tries to bite you, wear a pair of thick gloves to protect your hands when handling your rat.
·When you go to pick your new rat up, place one hand under its stomach and the other under its bottom and carefully lift it into your arms. Press it against your chest very gently to make it feel secure and safe.If you have to pick your rat up from the tail make sure it is always from the base nearest its body, not by anywhere else as it may break and cause your pet a great deal of pain.
·Always sit down when holding your rat, just in case you drop it.
·Your rat should be taken out at least once a day to prevent boredom.
Quick rat health check guide
Here are a few quick health checks you can do each day on your rat/s to see if they are fit and well.Please always take your rat/s to a veterinary surgeon if you think they are ill or injured as it could be something very serious.
Nose - check for redness, listen for noisy breathing.
Eyes- check for staining and redness, eyes should be clear and no sign of cloudiness.
Mouth- check teeth not overgrown, check for any sores around the mouth area that could be caused by overgrown teeth.
Chin and face - free from scabs, protein related scabs tend to accumulate under the chin area and around the face.
Ears - clean and free from scabs, scabs in the ear area may be sarcoptic mites.
Chest - hold rats belly against your ear to listen for unusual noises and wheeziness.
General body - free from scabs and wounds, also check regularly on the underside for mammary lumps. Check around rump area for mite scabs and lice. Skin should 'ping' back when gently pinched.
Feet and Legs - trim the toenails regularly, check for bitten toes and lumps on the underside of feet.
Coat- smooth and glossy to touch (apart from rex rats). No bald patches.
Tail- clean and smooth, check for cuts and damage.
(Health guide written by Estelle Sandford)
Rat Equipment List
Multi level rat cage Wheel Litter tray Water bottle Heavy earthenware food bowl Nest box Bottle brush Soft bedding Tubes, ropes and toys Ecopetbed, paper based litter or hard shavings Pet safe disinfectant Rat/small animal shampoo Mineral stone, non toxic branches or gnaw sticks Rat nuggets, rat muesli or pet shop bought rat food Book on rats